Garment construction



Jan. 22, 1952 ,J CLYNE 2,583,089

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Aug. 29, 1947 2 SHEETSSHEET l FIG. To

44 v K Y; INVENTOR.

JOSEPH CLYNE ATTORNEYS Jan. 22, 1952 J. CLYNE 2,583,089

GARMENT CONSTRUCTION Filed Aug. 29, 1947 2 SHEETSSHEET 2 INVENTOR.

JOSEPH CLYNE BY mizmmfim PBHIMUN ATTOFNEYS Patented Jan. 22, 1952 UNITED STATES :eArsNT OFFWE GARMENT CON STRUCTION- pserh; ti rnerlir nzt ign by mesne assignments, tojl lexsleev, llii c., 'acorporation of New York Application Augnst 29, 1947, Serial No. 771,342..

lfilain My invention relates. to. improvements in garments and more particularly. to an improved jacket-orcoat construction in which the elements are'combinedin such aomanner as. to provide a normal-fit for the wearer. and. at the same time provide a construction which will permit free movement'of the arms and body of the wearer.

'I' hisapplicationis a continuation-impart of m -pending applications, Serial No. 595,411, filed May 23; 1945; for Garment and Serial No. 627;O09-, filed November 6; 19:15, for Garment and Garment Construction," now respectively Patents Nos. 2,426,818 and.2;426 819. The. sub.- ject-matterdisclosed but-not claimed" in these applications; is claimed herein.

When a person wearing a jacket of common construction "attempts to. rase his arm, it .is a common experience to find that the sleeve. of the'jacket placesa strain on the upper arm muscle so that the. wearer does not have free movement ofhisarm. Furthermore, it, is a common experience vto find that the wearer of an ordinary jacket cannot raise his arms with,- out pulling the rest-of his-garmentout of position, to. either twist 'it around his body, 01 make it; ride. up; This is. particularly true if the weareri'ofthe garmentis .in a sitting position. In someecaseait is .verydiificult for one in a sitting position to raise his arms when wearing a in the front section of the garment e gtending qi earm ele. new; al wa e rgth r de writhen inte ral llQWWlQQ qr l werme a the arm ole qihef ps ds q i rbsd b v Eh ..1t\ t sleere rqv Wi hin? 1 cial, sha ed may. b rqntand t sle ve sectio s. a the .slsweimany iqrm; mar

be. .as a qr t ndard2 he garment Qf the pre ent invent qe s 9 more dif ic lt qimalsethae standard gar ent ndmey be. manufi ciuredi Wi hWP addii iiea cost to the wearer.

jacket of; ordinary construction. The strains; (t

. produced :on. the. arm muscles. under, such condition -necessaril a e the we rer 0f he ear,- ment uncomfortable and, ves. h m. t e. fee ng thathisarms, are held .down under tension.

Theprimaryeobiect. th r ore; f t e prese 0 ntent on is o pr vide a mpr ve a en 1.wh s:h.;w l o c msth ffir ties ands ratio s. ei e b r nd a i u, rl topro de, a mak 1 0% avines n sleeve fireearmmw me i 7 Another. hi pt, of h nvent is to pr vide aa mn Qv d-ea men ns u iip w h p e fcs ra g of the wearers ,ar1ns without st m ab e arm m an h qm llin heest qrTthe ar-ment out-.0 ts. n mal re ition.

Airr herb e t of he inv i i to vide an 1 improved garment construction which ad t d. t permit the re w n i 9 thearms;

. 35 dine a ewo m of h inventiqn. he mirrored: arment qo sirurii n cqmp ses a. a

t har neirqntandz a -s cti sat ach to 9 herei mm n umq r trai t a ns .--other: rd ri hwrmh e hr: were; ide/ i tr m- 9 9 si e fp f r ted in ae ordaiicf' I s i ti. .i 'nl i 's a ma h phe ween the sleeve "and the spay are wlm nes veiinr ised o meni.

Fig. 2. is a .view showing the .front'and ibackgsec ti ps qg -t eiacks .r,.ri 1 with he r nt ec- 1; 11 pro idedtw'th a d it and with .anintegraI eoneach sidepf the dart.

F.11 g.' 3 is a view. or the, top and under sec.- tions o a tWo-Ipiece sleeve such as shqwn' in E gl in hich ea h s otionis prov'ide'dwith a H h f particularponfiguration.

Eig'. 4 1s a vievvioffa ohe pi'ecelsleeve.combin} mg frontand back sections, provided with a special'allowance adapted to provide, a portion r fin -arm it 0f h e Fig. 5 is a broken sideviewofagarment show.-

ing: the. appearancf 0i a .j acket madeIwith apnepiepe sleeve as illustrated in'FiglA.

55 I lff g fi is a viewls mi larltothat of Fig srep- 3 resenting a top sleeve and under sleeve in which the allowance includes a substantial projection on the under sleeve section.

Fig. 7 is a view representing a combined under sleeve and top sleeve, including an integral allowance similar to the combined allowance of Fig. 6.

Fig. 8 is a diagrammatic pattern type view showing front and back sections of the waist portion of a garment of the Raglan sleeve type and which includes integral armpit allowances forming structures of special configuration.

Fig. 9 is a pattern type view showing back and front sleeve sections of the Raglan type each having armpit allowances somewhat similar to those of Fig. 3.

Fig. 10 is a view partly to one side of a garment having a waist portion constructed of the elements shown in Figs. 8 and 9, and having the general under-arm appearance of the garment shown in Fig. 5.

Referring to Fig. 1 of the drawings, this view shows a jacket constructed of suitable fabric in accordance with the present invention, from front and back body sections similar to those shown in Fig. 2 but having a standard armhole, and under and top sleeve sections patterned the same as those shown in Fig. 3. In Fig. 1 the jacket comprises a front section 10 attached to a back section 12 by means of a seam M which extends to the armpit. The front section It) includes a dart 16 which also extends to the armpit. The two back sections of course are attached to each other by seams in the back of the jacket.

The sleeves of the jacket shown in Fig. 1 comprise an under sleeve section l8 of the same pattern as that shown in Fig. 3 and a top sleeve section 20 of the same pattern as that shown in Fig. 3. These sleeve sections are attached to each other by a front seam 22 and a back seam, not shown, the front seam substantially matching the position of the dart l6. The sleeve is attached to the armhole section of the front and back sections of the garment by means of a seam 24. The jacket of Fig. 1 includes the usual collar and pockets, as indicated, which may be of any desired style.

The under sleeve section [8 of the jacket, as shown in Fig. 3, differs substantially. from the standard sleeve pattern at the armhole section of the sleeve, the shape of the standard sleeve pattern where it differs from the sleeve section I8 being indicated by a dotted line .26. Therefore, according to the present invention, the under sleeve section I8 includes at the armhole additional material or a compound allowance 28 integral with the sleeve section and of crescent shape, which is enlarged or wider toward the armpit section of the sleeve. This allowance includes an integral tail piece or extension 3!] extending substantially along the front edge of the under sleeve section. The armhole end of the under sleeve section Is as modified by the allowance 28 therefore includes a substantially short edge extending laterally from the edge 40, a shallow relatively long curve over the major portion of the end of the sleeve, and another short straight downwardly sloping edge extending to the sleeve edge 36. In this structure the edge 36 is nearly as long as the edge 40 so that when the arm is raised there is ample material at the armpit to give freedom of arm movement.

The top sleeve section 20 as shown in Fig. 3 also differs from the standard pattern which is indicated by the dotted line 32. This section of the sleeve therefore includes a substantial allowance at the armpit and along the lower edge of the sleeve section which is integral with the material of the sleeve. This allowance has a double wing-shaped configuration, one wing of which, 34, extends from the front edge of the sleeve along the armpit section, while the other wing, 35, extends substantiall along the front edge of the sleeve from the armpit section. The allowances 34 and 35 make the shoulder portion of the top sleeve 20 substantially symmetrical and the edges 38 and 42 substantially equal, the end edge comprising a rather gentle convex curve the center of which is attached to the shoulder of the garment.

In making up the sleeve of the jacket shown in Fig. 1 from the sleeve sections l8 and 20 shown in Fig. 3, edge 36 is attached to edge 38 by means of a seam to form the seam 22 shown in Fig. 1, while an edge 40 of the under sleeve section 18 is attached to the edge 42 of section 20 by means of a seam. When the sleeve sections I8 and 20 are sewed together, thetail or wing allowance 30 is sewed to the wing allowance 35, and the ends of the allowances 28 and 34 are also sewed together since they comprise a portion of the edges 36 and 38. The allowances 30 and 35 serve to provide a sleeve having an armpit section which is slightly larger than the standard sleeve, but the allowances 28 and 34 provide a sleeve which gives the wearer freedom to swing his arms and raise them in any position without having his arm muscles placed under any sleeve strain or tension. The illustration in Fig. 1 shows the appearance of the sleeve in raised position when the sleeve sections include the allowances shown and described in detail in connection with Fig. 3 of the drawings.

Fig. 2 of the drawings shows the structure of the back and front sections of a preferred form or jacket made in accordance with the present invention, the back section 44 corresponding to the back section l2 in Fig. 1 or the same as the standard pattern, and including only a relatively small portion of the armhole at 46. The front section 48 of the jacket has a pattern of the form shown in Fig. 2 and includes the edges 50 which form a dart which extends into the armhole portion of the jacket. The front also includes a fitting dart 52 in front of the dart edges 50, the edges of both of which are sewed together in completing the dart. The front section 48 in other respects differs substantially from the standard pattern by providing complementary under-arm allowances 54 and 56, on opposite sides of the dart 50. Each of these allowances 54 and 56 comprises a sub- 'stantiall triangular-shaped section extending beyond the edge of the armhole of the standard pattern, as indicated by the dotted lines 58 and 60. While the allowance 56 is shown as triangular, the allowance 54 is a four-sided irregular polygon in which the top edge is intended to match the upper sloping edge of the allowance 56 when the edges 50 are sewed together, thereby providing an armhole contour of two curves which meet in a peak in the lower portion of the armhole.

In making a jacket having front and back sections as shown in Fig. 2, and sleeve sections as shown in Fig. 3, the sleeve sections may be joined in the manner described above. while the back and front sections 44 and 48 are attached to each other by sewing together the adjacent edges 62 and 64. The edges 50 are sewed together and the fitting dart 52 is also sewed up, while any buttonholes or buttons-o1" other fastening means are provided on the front =section-48' adjacenttheedge 66. It will be understood" that for-each jacket *two front and 'twoback section-s are-provided and that the twoback sections will be *joined by sewing togethertwo edges 68-. After the-sleeve shown in Fig. 3- lias been-assemblewasdescribed above, it is sewed into the armhole afterthe top-shoulder seam of the jacket bodyismade, intheusual manner. A jacket made from material cut in the "mannershown in Figs. 2-and 3 has the general appearance of the jacket shown in Fig. 5 in which the effect of the under-armallowances 54 and 56 "i'n raisi'ng thematerial underthe arm is readily apparent.

Bycombining theallowances 28, 30, 34 and 3.5 with the allowances: 54 and 56, a combined sleeve and body structure is provided which gives. unusual 'freedom for the movement of the wearer's arms. The arm may be. raised freely without pulling the bodyand jacket up and without binding the arm muscles, and. particularly the upper arm and shoulder muscles used in raising the arms. Furthermore, the adjacent body and'arm construction provides a jacket having a very neat appearance. There is no bagginess or apparent extra fullness which would detract from the style and. appearance of the jacket. The sizes of the armholestructure is not-materially enlarged over that of a jacket made from a standard pattern, so that this feature, taken in conjunctionwith a combinationofthe particular shaped allowances,

jprovide a very efiective and practical jacket censtruction.

Fig. 4 shows a single-piece sleeve 10., combining front and back sleeves, which may be employed in place of the two-piece sleeve construction shownv in Fig. 3., in making a jacket either of the ard single-piece sleeve. pattern by the complex under-arm allowance TI, between the dotted line [2, representing the shape of the standard sleeve pattern where-it difiers'from the sleeve 76, and the line 74 representing the upper edge of the allowance H. The complex armpit allowance ll between-these lines is generally the shape of a crescent with a scalloped loweredge so. that. the line 72 is of substantially different shape from the line 14. The latter line forms a gentle symmetrical curve of low or relatively small amplitude between the opposite peaks: forming the top I shoulder part of. the sleeve. I

In making up a jacket with the sleeve it, the body sections 44 and 48 are combined as described above, while the top edges 16 and 18 of the sleeve 70 are sewed together to complete the sleeve, which is then set in the armhole provided by the sewing up of the back and front sections 44 and 4B. In the finished jacket, the allowance H is combined directly with the gores 54 and 56 to provide a jacket construction having a form very similar to that shown in Fig. 5. The sleeve I0 is set in the armhole with the gores 54 and 56 pointing directly into approximately the center of the allowance H or of line 14. The seam formed by joining the edges 16 and I8 will be substantially at the upper back portion of the sleeve.

extentof the standard patterns.

The si-ngle piece-"sleeve T0 mayalso be used in a jaeketbody-ef a=standardpattermsuch as shownin Fig. 1. However, the sleeve will differ from that shown in Fig. l because-it will notinelude thegores (wand- 0f Fig. 3 and -willnot include the seam 22. While the cuff portion of the sleeve shown in Fig; 3 differs from-that-in Fig. 4, thisis a matterof style not comprising -a -tion'- shown in Fig- 3 by'including a. projectiom84 on the allowance-of the'under sleeve. Irr this figure-asin-Fig. 3, the dotted lines representthe The-under sleeve 80 therefore-base special shapeubecausei of the projectionBA, including two similar: curves,

one of-which: runsto: the frontseam and the other of which extends up. to. a straigh'tcedge near the opposite edgeof thezsleeve- Thiszsleeveconstruc- .tion maybe combined withistandardbodyunits to make: a. garment. of i the style shown. in of the drawings.

.Fig. 7 shows a sleeve. ill-2 comprisinga combination of an under'and topnsleevezsimilar tuthose shown. in Fig. 6,. in which the dotted; line. represents the outline of the standard. sleeve pattern where it differs from that of the'sleeve. Hi2. IThis sleeve H32 may-be combined with: theubody elements Maud 48 shownin Fig. 2,: or with standard body elements to I produce; astyle similar toe that shown in Figs. 5 and 1, respectively. The: sleeve I02 includcsa substantially symmetricaligenerally crescent-shaped.armpitallewance Ifg4 having an enlargedcentral bodysectionandzsideasections which terminatesubstantially at a point. This gives a lc'w wave. curve for thearmpit-edge in :place of the usualdeep valley, to provide a gentle slope into the largeshoulder curve.

The use of this sleeveprovides a garment in: which there is only one scam in the sleeve, at the back, and in which the allowance gives ample freedom for lifting the arm.

Figs. 8, 9 and 10 illustrate a modification of the garment construction of the present invention in which the sleeve of the garment integrally includes a shoulder section to provide a garment of the Raglan type. In Fig. 8' airontwaistsection I it; includes an'armpit: allowance- I20 represented by the area enc-lesed by the full linecdges and the dottedline. The waistporticn of'the garment also includes a back section, l22-having an-v integral armpi-t allowance I 2.4 bordered. by the full line edges and the dottedl-ine,- as shown. Instead of the sleeve-attachment lines being straight. for the sections H8 and. I522, they. eX tend nearly to the side edges and then turn upward abruptly. .At. the. same time, the-adjacent edges extend up farther than usual to substantially meet the upwardly-turned curves bordering the upper portion of the allowances I20 and I24.

The sleeve of the modified garment shown in Fig. 10 includes a back sleeve I 26 and a front sleeve I28 as shown in Fig. 9. These sleeves are somewhat similar to those of Fig. 3 in that they include the allowances I30 and I32 respectively, having substantially the same wing shape or tapering portions. However, these sleeve sections I26 and I28 have a regular convex smoothly curved edge at the top where the sleeves are joined to the body portions of the garment and do not have the abrupt slope of the standard Raglan sleeve. As a result of the allowances I30 and I32, the adjacent edges of the sleeve sections more nearly approach the length of the remote edges and provide almost interchangeable sleeve sections.

When the elements of the garment shown in Figs. 8 and 9 are assembled and sewed together, they provide a garment waist section having the style and function shown in Fig. 10 in which the allowances I20 and I24 in combination with allowances I30 and I32 and their contours effect an upswing of the seams attaching the sleeves at the armpit of the garment. This gives a bow curve effect similar to that shown in Fig. 5, the construction being such that freedom of arm movement is provided for in combination with a garment structure in which the sleeves integrally include the shoulder of the garment.

My improved garment construction illustrated in Figs. 8, 9 and 10 comprises a combination particularly advantageous in connection with Raglan and similar type sleeves, to provide a garment which gives freedom of movement of the wearers arms without binding the arm muscles and without distorting the garment on the body of the wearer. The provision of the underarm allowances of the particular structures described above appears to offset the normal binding character of the particular types of sleeves referred to. It is therefore possible, according to my invention to provide garments having sleeves of various type and at the same time have a garment in which the wearer has unusual freedom of arm movement.

While it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that various types of garments may be made in accordance with the different forms of the invention, it may be pointed out that the form shown in Figs. 1 to 3 is particularly adapted for use in connection with mens and ladies jackets and the same is true for the modifications shown in Figs. 6 and '7. The form of garment shown in Figs. 4 and 5 are advantageously employed in connection with the making of coats for various purposes. The Raglan type of garment illustrated in Figs. 8, 9 and 10 is advantageously employed for the making of mens and ladies coats for various purposes. It is to be further understood of course that the improved garment construction may be employed in various types of apparel including ladies waists,

mens shirts and other apparel.

The improved garment construction of the present invention results from a combination of relatively simple structural features which give the garment a sleeve and armpit structure permitting free movement of the wearers arms without distorting the garment and without binding the arm muscles. A wearer of the garment of the present invention may raise his arms in any position without breaking the sleeve or pulling the body of the garment out of its normal position. From the foregoing description, it will be apparent that certain variations may be made in the structure of the garment and still achieve the objects of the invention. Such changes are contemplated as coming within the spirit and scope of the invention.

What I claim as new is:

In a sleeved garment, an improved waist construction providing for freedom of arm movement of the wearer of the garment, comprising a garment waist portion including a front section and a back section joined together by a seam at the side of the garment below the sleeve, a sleeve for the garment including a substantial integral armpit allowance blended into-the attachment end of the sleeve to provide an attachment edge having curves of relatively small amplitude, said sleeve armpit allowance including a portion extending along the front portion of the attachment edge of the sleeve and gradually diminishing in width toward the top of the attachment edge of the sleeve thereby providing a gentle slope along the front portion of and toward the top of the attachment edge of the sleeve, the front section of the waist including an armpit attachment edge to which the armpit attachment edge of the sleeve is attached, a dart extending through said armpit attachment edge of the front section of the waist, an upwardly projecting complementary allowance at each side of the dart in the armpit portion of the front section of the Waist where the sleeve is attached, and seams joining said sleeve to the front and back sections of the garment so that the sleeve allowance is joined to the waist allowance, whereby a garment is provided which permits free arm movement of the wearer and which also permits the wearer to readily raise his arms without distorting the position of the garment on the body of the wearer and without binding the wearer's arm muscles.

JOSEPH CLYNE.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 2,305,406 Clyne et al Dec. 15, 1942 2,313,665 Natale Mar. 9, 1943 2,407,383 Previdi Sept. 10, 1946 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 302,451 Great Britain Dec. 20, 1938 351,748 Great Britain July 2, 1931 

